Every time I build a Rev. I find myself wondering why I haven’t explained them better. Reverends are built for solid climbs and fast descents.
I start with customer input on style and weight preferences. I can add bent top tubes for standover height clearance, and reinforcement details on the down tube and seat tube.
Any bent main tubes on a bike add weight so it is a consideration to think about. I personally think the weight is worth the style and durability you gain. Of course I am not racing competitively and counting every gram either, which is why I offer a racier version that uses more OX Platinum and less reinforcement. Still strong but less resistant to denting and other damage inflicted during a hard crash. On the race style I bend a short heavier walled tube for fork crown clearance up by the head tube and then sleeve it with a short stainless steel piece and splice an OX Platinum tube that continues on to the bottom bracket shell.
Active riders, which is to say people who like to flick their bikes around switch backs or tight sections of trail, will enjoy the shorter wheel base the Reverend provides. A lot of effort goes into shortening their wheel base for climbing and cornering. Shorter stays work better for climbing. Period. Traction is based on weight placed on the rear wheel. When I first started building 29ers I found myself having to run longer chainstay lengths than I wanted but they were easy to produce so I stuck to it for a while. Over time I have learned that easy doesn’t always work best and certain “customizations” are indeed necessary for optimal function.
Standard chainstay lengths of 450-445mm center to center are easy to produce and for the most part work well until you need to climb out of the saddle. When you stand and shift your weight forward you remove weight from your rear wheel and run the risk of spinning out. Frustrating to anyone. With a Reverend you end up with a chainstay length of 432mm. Traction for days.
I achieve the shorter stays by bending the seat tube and running a plate mount front derailleur. The direct mount FDs are perfect because their “shifty bits” largely fall to the side of the seat tube vs the rear as many others do, robbing you of mud clearance and generally being annoying. Since the reverend is top pull it is also possible to hack off the bottom pull arm from the FD to add even more clearance.
It is possible to go too short on a bikes wheel base as demonstrated here in a video I took at Mountain Bike Oregon this year.